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Published on 8/5/2008

By Nathalie Dupree

From pollination to fruition, figs are a magical fruit, some of them conceived in an extraordinary way. My Brown Turkey figs, however, require no fancy shenanigans like the California ones I saw pollinated by hanging wasps in a special cage to attract the opposite gender wasps, who then fertilized the figs by burrowing deep into them and becoming trapped. My figs just grow, nearly the botanical opposite of a strawberry, which carries its seeds on the outside surface.

It's been months since figs started appearing on my five-year-old, six-foot tree. It's our first bumper crop, requiring daily picking to forestall beading sugar and holes that appear poked by voracious insects eager for the sweetness. Two of us run out with little sweetgrass baskets, piling in the soft fruit until we can find no more, paying particular attention to the branches that drop over the wall, positioned to splash on the neighbor's car. Each day requires new ideas for figs, because after the tried-and-true are done -- the required nod to country ham with figs and other such sweet and salty combinations -- there are more figs, more challenges.

For instance: A salad of nuts and goat cheese, drizzled with an aged balsamic vinegar, perhaps with a little duck added to make a meal. Or a perfect fig jam or fig butter. An ice-cream mousse that strikes the deep notes of the fig and pulls them into an amber caramel fig sauce that lingers long on the tongue. A cheesecake with swirls of figs to adorn and enhance, easily assembled and baked, served cool at a picnic.

My two apprentices, Charles Lee from Johnson & Wales, and Meredith Spalviero from Trident Tech's Culinary Institute of Charleston, developed these recipes in their entirety, with tasting from me.

This is a recipe to use when figs are abundant, as it requires more than you would expect. When cooked, their volume is greatly reduced. This butter goes very well with brioche or other breakfast breads and would make a great surprise gift to family, friends or neighbors.

Brown Turkey Fig

Butter or Jam

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

4 cups Brown Turkey figs, halved

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons honey

A splash of wine vinegar, red or white

3 teaspoons candied ginger, chopped

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Put the figs, water, honey, red wine vinegar, candied ginger and salt in a pot. Simmer uncovered for about 45 minutes or until the figs are soft. Purée mixture. Add butter. Stir until well-blended. Refrigerate until serving. Will keep several weeks refrigerated. This is an attractive tart that will catch the eye of everyone. The graham cracker touch is easy, but the addition of chopped figs to the crust offers a buttery taste that no one expects. Fresh figs are smashing on this, but see below for variations.

Chuck's Fig

Cheesecake Tart

Serves 6 to 8

1 pre-baked graham cracker crust using figs (recipe below)

8 ounces cream cheese, softened

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup half-and-half or 1/4 heavy cream and 1/4 cup milk

8 to 10 cups figs, halved

1/2 cup brown sugar

4 tablespoons fig jam

1 tablespoon water

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Beat the cream cheese with the sugar until fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and vanilla. Beat until combined. Add egg yolks, one at a time, and beat thoroughly. Pour in the half-and-half and mix thoroughly. Whip egg whites until they have stiff peaks. Fold into the cream cheese mixture. Pour into prepared crust. Bake for 30 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

Layer figs closely together, cut side up, onto half of the tart.

Push brown sugar through a wire mesh strainer evenly over the fruit. Return to oven for an additional 20 minutes.

Make the glaze by combining water and jam in a saucepan. Simmer until slightly reduced. Set aside. Remove tart from oven. Brush the figs with the still-warm fig glaze. Cool to room temperature. Refrigerate and serve chilled.

This crust incorporates dried figs, which makes for a nice element of surprise.

Graham Cracker

and Fig Crust

Makes 1 crust (8- to 9-inch)

1 1/2 cups crushed graham crackers

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1/4 cup granulated sugar-dried figs, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Crush graham crackers between your hands or inside a plastic bag. Move to a bowl. Add butter, sugar and figs. Blend well together. Put into an 8- or 9-inch tart pan. Smooth the mixture out evenly and press up the sides of the pan. Chill in the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes or until set. Bake for 10 minutes. Cool on a rack to room temperature.

This lightly tangy and sweet vinaigrette is delicious with peppery arugula. Feel free to use whatever fresh herbs are growing in the yard, such as lemon balm, thyme and basil. Use whatever leftover meat or seafood you have in the fridge, especially duck, lamb, beef or shrimp.

Cook's notes:

* I use the wild arugula that grows in my garden year-round. Wild and cultivated are both available in plastic containers in the produce section of most local grocery stores. A good substitute is the herb mix also now available in plastic boxes in the grocery store produce section.

* White balsamic vinegar is not truly balsamic vinegar, which is historically red, nor is it always white. The one we used was actually red, although labeled white. It is lighter than some balsamic vinegars, however. Really good balsamic vinegar is nearly a syrup, once used, amazingly, for cough syrup by the Italians. Any good wine vinegar may be substituted or lemon juice if necessary.

* Lemon balm is a member of the mint family that grows easily in the Lowcountry. My friend Mitchell Crosby brought me the lemon stilton, which is available at some grocery stores and cheese stores locally. If it is not available, any crumbled cheese, particularly goat cheese, will be delicious. To enhance the lemon flavor, grate lemon rind into the salad.

Frozen Caramel

and Fig Mousse

Serves 6 to 8

1 cup sugar

1 cup water, divided

6 egg yolks

2 cups fresh figs, stemmed, washed and quartered

2 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Heat the sugar and 1/2 cup of water in a medium-sized heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat without boiling until the sugar is dissolved. Use a wet brush to

SEE FIGS, Page 3B

sweep down any sugar crystals that collect on the side of the pan before boiling. When the sugar is dissolved, turn up the heat and boil steadily until a golden brown caramel (330-360 degrees).

Keeping the pan over the heat, cover your arms and hands with an oven mitt and carefully pour the remaining 1/2 cup of water into the caramel. The hot syrup will splatter, so be careful. Stir over heat until the caramel is melted.

Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks with an electric mixer until they have reached the ribbon stage (A batter has reached the ribbon stage when an "M" can be drawn, using the residue on a whisk, on top of the batter and will stay a few seconds.)

Pour the still-hot caramel syrup down the side of the mixing bowl in a slow steady stream while mixer is running and continue to beat until the mixture has thickened and cooled. Meanwhile, puree figs in a blender until smooth. Fold figs into the egg mixture.

Whip the cream and the vanilla to soft peaks, saving 1 cup for decoration, and fold into the egg/fig mixture. Spoon into little mousse pots, a mold or a freezer-proof serving bowl and freeze overnight (at least 5 hours) before serving. May be frozen for several weeks, tightly covered.

To unmold, run a paring knife around edge and turn out onto serving plate. (Molds with a removable bottom make it much easier to remove.) Try to avoid dipping into hot water to unmold as the cream may melt. It will soften within a few minutes of serving.

Before serving, decorate the top with the reserved whipped cream and drizzle with fig caramel sauce (recipe below). Garnish with fresh fig slices and serve.

This sauce is delicious on ice cream, and makes a beautiful sauce on other desserts as well. Poured into little glass jars, it also makes a fantastic homemade gift.

Meri's Fig

Caramel Sauce

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup water, divided

1 cup fresh figs, quartered

Splash of sherry vinegar, to taste

Heat the sugar and 1/2 cup of water in a medium-size heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat until the sugar is dissolved. Use a wet brush to sweep down any sugar crystals that collect on the side of the pan. When the sugar is dissolved, turn up the heat and boil steadily until a golden brown caramel (330-360 degrees). While sugar is cooking, puree figs in blender until smooth and reserve 1/2 cup puree for caramel. When sugar has turned a golden amber color, carefully pour the remaining 1/4 cup of water into the caramel. The hot syrup will splatter, so be careful. Continue stirring over heat until the caramel is melted. Add fig puree and cook over low heat until slightly thickened. Season with a splash of sherry vinegar. Cool and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container or jar. Serve over ice cream, bread puddings or other desserts.

These crispy yet creamy cups highlight the beautiful figs growing in Lowcountry gardens and backyards. The filling can be made the day before, allowing the flavors to marry.

Phyllo cups are available at many local grocery stores, and will do, but they are not as buttery as these, or as crisp. The recipe only uses a portion of the phyllo dough package. Although the dough refrigerates and freezes once the package is open, it doesn't handle as well. I suggest you make more cups with the rest of the dough, and freeze the cups for another use. Always freeze phyllo products in a sturdy container. Any jostling will crush them.

Meri's Savory Fig Cups

Makes 24 mini tarts

4 sheets phyllo dough, thawed according to package directions

3-4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, divided

6 ounces goat cheese

1/4 cup heavy cream

3 tablespoons honey, divided

Zest of half a lemon

1/2 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

12 brown turkey figs, quartered

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly butter the cups of a mini muffin pan.

Remove dough from refrigerator and allow to get to room temperature (about 15 minutes, longer if dough is frozen) before unfolding or it may crack. Make a place on the counter for three areas large enough to accommodate the package of dough, preferably three baking sheets. Move the unfolded dough to one of the baking sheets and cover with a dampened light cloth or sturdy paper towel. It is important to keep the dough covered with a damp but not wet cloth.

Brush a large baking sheet with some butter and move 1 phyllo sheet to it. Cover remaining phyllo with a lightly dampened cloth. Brush the single phyllo with butter and move another phyllo sheet on top and press lightly to smooth if necessary. Repeat layering until you use four sheets. Cut the stack of four phyllo doughs into 24 equal squares by cutting into 4 even strips lengthwise and then cutting each strip into 6 even pieces (approximately 2 1/4 inch square.). Arrange squares into mini muffin pan and bake until squares are golden brown and crisp, 15-17 minutes. Allow to cool. (Continue with the rest of the dough, melting additional butter, if making more cups and finishing the package.)

While cups are baking, mix goat cheese, heavy cream, and 2 tablespoons honey until smooth and creamy. Stir in lemon zest, rosemary, black pepper and salt to taste. Bring vinegar and remaining 1 tablespoon honey to a boil in a small saucepan; simmer until reduced and slightly syrupy, 5-7 minutes.

To assemble cups, spoon a tablespoon of the goat cheese mixture into cooled tart shell. Top with one or two pieces of fresh fig. Repeat with remaining tart shells. Sprinkle with black pepper. Drizzle with balsamic reduction.

Tip: For a sweet shell, sprinkle granulated sugar after the butter in each layer.

Meri's Fig & Pecan Salad with White Balsamic & Honey Vinaigrette

This lightly tangy and sweet vinaigrette is delicious with peppery arugula. Feel free to use whatever fresh herbs are growing in the yard, such as lemon balm, thyme, and basil. Use whatever leftover meat or seafood you have in the fridge, especially duck, lamb, beef or shrimp.

Cook's notes:

I use the wild arugula that grows in my garden year round. Wild and cultivated are both available in plastic containers in the produce section of most local grocery stores. A good substitute is the herb mix also now available in plastic boxes in the grocery store produce section.

White balsamic vinegar is not truly balsamic vinegar, which is historically red, nor is it always white. The one we used was actually red, although labeled white. It is lighter than some balsamic vinegars, however. Really good balsamic vinegar is nearly a syrup, once used, amazingly, for cough syrup by the Italians. Any good wine vinegar may be substituted or lemon juice if necessary.

Lemon balm is a member of the mint family that grows easily in the Lowcountry. My friend Mitchell Crosby brought me the lemon stilton, which is available at some grocery stores and cheese stores locally. If it is not available, any crumbled cheese, particularly goat cheese, will be delicious.

To enhance the lemon flavor, grate lemon rind into the salad.

Serves 2-4 as a starter or 2 for a light lunch

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons vinegar, preferably white balsamic

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon balm, chopped

1 (5-ounce) package arugula or other greens

1 cup shredded cooked duck

8 fresh figs, quartered

1/4 cup pecans, toasted

1/4 cup lemon stilton cheese, or other crumbled cheese

Whisk the Dijon mustard and honey with the vinegar in a small bowl. While whisking, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add lemon balm or other fresh herbs if available. Toss the greens, duck and figs with the dressing (you may have some leftover) and divide onto 2-4 serving plates. Garnish with toasted pecans and crumbled cheese. Serve immediately.

Nathalie Dupree, who lives in Charleston, is the former director of Rich's Cooking School in Atlanta and the author of eight cookbooks, including "Nathalie Dupree's Comfortable Entertaining." She may be reached at www.nathalie.com.